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Newbies to Raw Feeding

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Newbies to Raw Feeding

Post  Admin on Thu Sep 22, 2011 5:30 pm

When you collect your puppy from me you will be given a diet guide, you will also be purchasing food to last until the next order is delivered if you are local, you will then be invited to join our 'feeding consortium' ( I can get very good quality meats and minces delivered here once a month, all you have to do is let me know you want to order, then pick up on delivery day, I will help you with the amounts you need) For those owners who are not local to us - we can supply you with enough food to give your breathing space of 4 weeks to source your own supplier, we are also quite happy to help with this as we have RAW contacts all over the country.

All the assorted minces your puppy requires in the diet guide are included in the 'puppy pack' you also need to purchase the stuff on your 'shopping list' posted here for you http://krisannrio.forumotion.com/t48-laska-pups-shopping-list

Don't forget to check out the other two posts about how your puppy should eat and how much etc below :-)
http://krisannrio.forumotion.com/t40-how-a-puppy-feeds-when-it-leaves-the-litter#111

http://krisannrio.forumotion.com/t51-how-much-should-my-7-week-old-puppy-be-eating#134

So your minced meats....what's included ?

A selection of red meats, lamb, beef and a mixture of both
A selection of white meat, turkey & chicken
Rabbit - easily recognised, as it is a very dark mince ( The beef and tripe can also be very dark, but you will be in no doubt which one you've got when you smell them !! Anything with tripe in smells like you wouldn't believe )
A selection of tripey minces, chicken & tripe, green tripe, beef & tripe and tripe & heart.
Choice chunks - lights & lungs

Although at this stage, you should only need one pack of mince per day to feed your puppy, it is a good idea to take two out, they will keep very nicely in the fridge for two days and this way your pup is having a variety of minced meals within it's day.

So to start the day, take your third of a packet of mince and serve between 6am and 7am, if pup is still hungry give her a lamb bone.

Meal two should be around lunch time and it should be a third of the other type of mince you have taken out, try if you can, to go for a contrast, remember at first, your little puppy's system is on overtime, dealing with the digestion of a meal 4 times a day, depending on what you have fed, this is going to produce a variety of poops, in both colour and texture....do not worry, it's all normal, the poops will become more uniform as time goes on.

Please see here :- http://krisannrio.forumotion.com/t60-what-a-pile-of-poop#188

Avoid taking out 2 red minces together, go for a red and rabbit or a tripe and white etc.

At the moment, your puppy is on 4 minced meals ( that's one whole packet) plus chicken, lamb & pork bones to practise on, up to now, they haven't really been able to eat much of the bones (If a bone is intended to be a meal item - it HAS to be something the puppy can consume and the very best bone you can use at this age is chicken) We have just been giving them carcase and wings for target practise and they have really enjoyed trying !! Now we are almost ready to phase out one of the mince meals and reduce to three and use the chicken bones to replace the 4th minced meal. This is only possible if they can actually consume the bone and sometimes you have to help a little to start with, trust me....in a few weeks time, your puppy will demolish wings and carcases at the speed of light, but for now, their teeth are tiny and whilst very efficient will need a bit of help !!

Take your chicken carcase or wing and batter it, either with a cleaver to make breaks in it, or with a rolling pin, anything you can give it a good seeing to with, will do, what you are aiming to do is break up the bones a little bit to aid your puppy. Don't remove the bones, they are vitally important as this is where the calcium in your pups diet comes from and without bones, it falls flat.

While he is still tiny, it's a good idea to supervise bone eating sessions, as he grows they won't be around long enough for you to supervise

So make the third meal of the day the chicken wings or carcases, before you feed them, you can feed a tiny ( and I MEAN tiny bit of liver - if you go over the top with the liver, or heart at this stage be ready for the consequences in the poop dept )

Both liver and heart should be served twice a week, build up the amount you feed and always back it up with a chicken wing/s or carcase.

A reasonable amount of chicken bones for a pup to eat in one meal at this stage is 1-2 wings or a carcase.

Other bones can be served after meals during the day, such as lamb or pork and very occassionally, beef ( Beef bones are ideal for your pup to practise on, I don't mean the big marrow or knuckle bones, although these can be given to a pup now and then (go for meaty bones, from your butcher or DAF) - Once your puppy's mouth has developed and is capable of tackling beef bones, my advice would be - don't feed them !!! Or if you do, only very occasionally, your dog will do his damndest to consume the bone, but as they are very hard and dense he stands a good chance of cracking or wearing down teeth)

So for practice only.....lamb, pork and beef bones can be fed at this time, between meals and should not be considered as part of the meal plan, until your pup actually consumes them (not beef !)

You also have to fit in your eggs, fish and other bits and pieces, these can be incorporated into the week quite easily, if it's time for fish....a small portion fed before wings, if it's time for egg, either on it's own or with mince ( it's the yolk that is the useful part, the white is really not very nutritionally valuable) You can crush the shell up as tiny as you can and add to a mince meal.

As your pup gets older, you can knock him down to two minced meals, but increase the amount of mince at each sitting, also increasing the bones he is eating, but that will be dealt with properly when we reach that stage.

What you are aiming to do is 'build' your prey animal, by meals you are providing, over a course of time. Balance should not be aimed for in a day, it takes at least a week, I get a balance over a fortnight with the adults as they are consuming less meals than a pup.

Your 'prey model' animal consists of meat and bones, skin and connective tissues, organ meat and offal. You are aiming to provide your puppy with 'the complete animal' over the course of say - a week.

If you include all the items on your shopping list, consumable chicken pieces, such as wings and a good variety of minces ( which I am providing) then you really have got it covered.

'Wild caught' or organic, will always improve the quality of a diet, for them and us !! We can get small supplies of wild caught rabbit, skinned and gutted at 2.50 each, we are constantly searching for new suppliers, so if you think you may know anybody who can help, please let us know.

At the moment, we are receiving a supply each month on DAF day and it's a first come first served basis, they are proving very popular and I will let everyone know, via FB and on here when the order is due and give you the opportunity to order.

And remember, I am always available to talk diet !!
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Join date : 2011-09-07
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Location : Wirral

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